Have you been present when an energy audit is being conducted on a home?
Even if you have a pretty good idea of where air leaks are occurring, there can be surprises and some simple cost-effective solutions.
While you hear messages to unplug the chargers responsible for ‘phantom loads’, it is even wiser to consider that there might be literally gaping holes in your home from which hard-earned money could be escaping!
I recently had our home inspected for an energy audit and discovered the air is changing nearly 4 times in an hour (air leakage at 50 Pa). That almost feels like someone is leaving a door open in the winter! The horror subsided when the inspector gave me some practical inexpensive solutions, as well as a range of mid and high priced remedies.
I had called several local independent contractors and selected Green_Tech_Services to perform this audit.
I was looking for a company with an auditor that would use a thermal imaging camera, since I wanted to “see” the air leaks! (That's my interior design training!)
Thermal imaging is a visual display of the amount of heat radiated, reflected or transmitted from a surface or an object. The camera allowed me to ‘see’ the temperature on a surface by converting the infrared spectrum to the visible spectrum.
The Audit Process
The energy auditor attached a tent and fan structure to the front door to perform an air blower door test. The fan expelled the house’s air, creating negative pressure that made air leakage in the building envelope obvious with great drafts that I could feel with my hand and see on his camera display.
We went from room to room and top to bottom, examining the outside perimeter walls of the building envelope and the top floor ceiling. He accessed the attic through the hatch door to inspect the insulation below the roof. He made many suggestions, pointing out flaws and remedies. I took notes and he promised a full report.
Home Energy Action Checklist:
Electrical Outlet Air Loss
This is the inexpensive dramatic solution that really surprised me.
Unless electrical boxes for switches and outlets are sealed properly on exterior walls, air rushes past the gap between the box and the drywall. This gap can be sealed carefully (after the electrical supply is turned off) with a small amount of drywall compound or interior caulking. I found that I could do this myself without difficulty.
From a hardware store, I purchased ‘Electrical Outlet and Wallplate Insulator’ foam gaskets. After I put the cover plate back, I used the safety caps to insert into outlets not in use to prevent more air from leaking. I systematically went from room to room, focusing only on exterior walls.
I could feel a significant difference in room comfort after insulating the outlets more thoroughly.
Baseboard Air Loss
This is another simple solution provided there is a steady hand to apply caulking! Air rushes in at the top and bottom of baseboards unless the gap has been closed properly. Ideally, foam insulation is sprayed at the bottom of the drywall where a gap exists at the floor. A contractor can be instructed to caulk this prior to applying baseboards in a retrofit or addition. If the baseboards are already in place, simply caulking at the upper and lower edge is a less effective but still somewhat worthy fix. I used clear caulking on stained baseboards and at hardwood floor edges, and paintable interior caulking on painted baseboards.
Floor Vent Air Loss
Air can leak between the edges of the metal ductwork and the subfloor when it travels along the floor plate from exterior walls.
The auditor showed me gaps when he lifted the floor register, which I filled with some interior caulking, and then I replaced the register.
Potlights and Ceiling Fixture Air Loss
This remedy to air leakage probably requires a licensed electrician since it is important to have top floor ceiling holes safely sealed without risk of fire hazard. You don’t want ceiling insulated housings to overheat.
Attic / Roof Insulation - improve to R50
I found this air leakage remedy to be mid-priced. I hired a contractor to increase my attic insulation from R-20 (which was standard when my home was built) to at least R-50. The energy auditor said he wanted to see at least 17” of insulation when he returned for the final inspection. The contractor also checked the air quality of my attic and determined that there was no smell that would indicate a condensation problem.
The Energy Audit Report
These are but a few of the action items to be taken following an energy audit. My auditor mailed a complete report which has been so valuable for my follow up. His analysis has estimated that 70% of my energy consumption is for space heating, 16% for lighting & appliances and 14% for hot water.
The report rates my home against others in the same category of age and efficiency. He estimates I could lower my overall energy consumption by 18% if I implemented everything in his report.
Additional Improvements eg. Weatherstripping on Doors
Weatherstripping on exterior doors, replacement of doors and windows, and replacing the hot water heater could all be considered to also lower energy consumption.
Of course, the big items like a high efficiency furnace and air conditioner are the higher priced options I have already completed.
Whether you have a home energy audit or not, following some of these tips could make your home more comfortable and your energy bills lower.
Proof of having made these improvements could well enhance future resale value of the property. Take photographs and keep receipts!
If you have questions or wish to book Dayle for a consultation or speaking engagement, please contact the office at 905-846-3221. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
